The Li people are an officially recognized ethnic group in China whose history is closely connected with Hainan Island. Their cultural heritage includes Li brocade, regional dress, oral traditions, boat-shaped houses, bamboo and wood instruments, and the Sanyuesan festival.
A patterned tube skirt offers one way into this history. Its colored bands lead back to the person at the loom, the family that taught the technique and the occasions on which the garment is worn. This guide follows those connections from textiles to language, houses, celebrations and contemporary life.
Li People at a Glance
| Chinese name | 黎族 |
|---|---|
| Pinyin | Lí zú |
| English name | Li people; also encountered as Hlai |
| Population in China | 1,602,104 (2020) |
| Principal region | Hainan Island |
| Regional labels | Ha, Qi, Run, Meifu and Sai |
| Textile skills | Spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidery |
| Festival | Sanyuesan, the third day of the third lunar month |
| Architecture | Boat-shaped houses and other local forms |
Who Are the Li People?
The Li are one of China's 56 officially recognized ethnic groups. The Encyclopedia of China records a population of 1,602,104 in 2020. Their principal communities are in Hainan, including Wuzhishan, Baoting, Qiongzhong, Baisha, Ledong, Lingshui, Changjiang, Dongfang and Sanya. [1]
These places encompass mountains, river valleys, plains and coastal environments. They help explain the differences in local settlement, farming, clothing and speech. Wuzhishan is an important setting for understanding Li culture, but a mountain village is only one part of Li life.
People from different local communities may speak different varieties, recognize different textile styles and celebrate with different family customs. When looking at a garment or listening to a song, its place of origin matters. [2]
The Name “Li” and Hainan's Historical Connections
The name “Li” appears in late Tang-period writing and became a more established designation after the Song period. Earlier records used broad names such as Li and Liao, written with different Chinese characters, for populations in southern China. Those categories do not correspond exactly to today's ethnic identities. [2]
Historical studies often connect Li ancestors with populations associated with the ancient Baiyue of southern China. Such connections are best understood through several kinds of evidence, including language, archaeology, written records and oral traditions.
Hainan's history includes migration, trade and exchanges of knowledge with the mainland. Li communities developed within these relationships over many generations. A single origin legend or ancient label cannot provide a complete account of that history. [3]
The Li Language and Writing
Li, also encountered under the name Hlai, has its own sound systems, vocabulary and local varieties. In traditional Chinese linguistic classification, it belongs to the Li branch of the Zhuang-Dong group within Sino-Tibetan. Ha, Qi, Run, Meifu and Sai are common labels in descriptions of regional Li communities. [2]
Much knowledge has been transmitted through speech, song, storytelling and practical demonstration. A Latin-based writing scheme was devised in 1957, while Chinese characters are widely used in education and public life. It is therefore useful to distinguish historical writing practices, a devised writing system and everyday literacy. [1]
Li Brocade: Spinning, Dyeing, Weaving and Embroidery
Li brocade, commonly called Lijin, brings together a sequence of material skills. Makers prepare fibers, spin yarn, apply color, construct cloth and, where appropriate, add stitched decoration. Cotton, hemp and other fibers are used to make clothing and household textiles. [4]
| Spinning | Preparing fibers and twisting them into yarn. |
|---|---|
| Dyeing | Coloring yarn or cloth, including with plant-based materials. |
| Weaving | Organizing warp and weft threads to form cloth and patterns. |
| Embroidery | Adding stitched decoration to a textile surface. |
Tube skirts, headcloths, pull-over garments, covers and dragon quilts are among the forms associated with this textile tradition. Designs and working methods differ between communities, and instruction has often passed through close observation and hands-on practice. [4]
How does a backstrap loom work?
A backstrap loom connects the maker's body to the tension of the warp. Adjusting posture is part of coordinating the threads and forming the cloth. A compact tool can therefore support highly intricate work.
In traditions documented among Meifu and other communities, warp threads are bound to resist dye before weaving. The maker must coordinate the colored sections as the fabric takes shape. This is different from printing a pattern onto finished cloth. [5]
What changed in the UNESCO listing?
Traditional Li textile techniques entered UNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2009. In 2024, the element was transferred to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The two dates describe different stages of safeguarding. Teaching, community participation and opportunities to continue making textiles have been central to strengthening transmission. [6]
Li Clothing and Regional Styles
The tube skirt is a recognizable feature of many forms of Li women's traditional dress. It may be combined with a jacket, headcloth and ornaments. Length, arrangement of patterned bands and color combinations differ between local traditions.
When studying dress, look at how a garment is constructed and worn as well as its decoration. A ceremonial outfit, a museum display and a stage costume answer different questions about clothing. Contemporary presentation can include new materials and design choices.
Textile motifs can carry cultural memory and local identity. Their precise meanings should be understood through makers and community knowledge rather than assigned from appearance alone. [4]
Barkcloth: A Different Way to Make a Garment
Barkcloth adds another dimension to Li material culture. It is made by processing suitable bark into flexible sheets rather than weaving spun threads. Documented techniques include preparing, soaking, cleaning and beating the material before making useful objects.
The use of barkcloth did not immediately end when cotton textiles became available. It continued in items such as clothing, belts and mats. Its manufacture preserves knowledge of how plant materials behave under repeated treatment. [7]
Boat-Shaped Houses and Village Architecture
Boat-shaped houses are a representative form of Li traditional architecture. Their curved, low-reaching roofs suggest an overturned boat. Timber, bamboo, binding materials and thatch combine in a structure that depends on local building knowledge.
Baicha village in Dongfang is an important place for the preservation of these houses. Construction and repair involve selecting materials, assembling frames, tying components and laying the roof covering. Li boat-shaped house construction techniques entered China's national intangible cultural heritage list in 2008.
Today, modern homes are common. Traditional houses continue to matter as places of memory, architectural records and settings for maintenance and teaching. Their survival depends on people who understand how to build and care for them. [8]
Sanyuesan: The Third Day of the Third Lunar Month
Sanyuesan, literally “the third day of the third month,” is an important Li festival held according to the lunar calendar. It brings together remembrance of ancestors, the arrival of spring, courtship and hopes for a happy life.
Different origin narratives circulate, including stories about survival after a flood and the lovers Agui and Eniang. These are oral traditions that express ideas about kinship, courage and renewal; they are not interchangeable with a dated historical record.
Gatherings can include alternating songs, dance, shared meals and folk sports. Through song, participants exchange feelings and demonstrate skill with words and melody. The Li Sanyuesan Festival entered China's first national intangible cultural heritage list in 2006.
Public celebrations today may also include costume presentations, craft markets and staged performances. The calendar date is shared, but the scale and program of events vary locally. [9]
Bamboo and Wood Instruments, Song and Dachai Dance
Li instrumental traditions make extensive use of bamboo and wood. Instruments described in local documentation include the nose flute, mouth bow and dingdong percussion. Each has its own construction, sound and playing technique. Their variety reflects close attention to the possibilities of ordinary materials. [10]
Dachai dance is another widely recognized form of Li cultural expression. Participants coordinate movement with the opening, closing and striking of poles. Timing depends on watching and responding to other people.
The settings for this dance have changed through time. Today it appears in public performances and in community recreation and exercise. A particular performance is best understood through its participants, location and teaching tradition. [11]
Rice, Bamboo Fragrance and Shared Meals
Rice cooked in bamboo, Shanlan rice wine and colorful festival rice are frequently associated with Li food presentations in Hainan. Bamboo containers can contribute fragrance during cooking, while rice wine is connected with local cultivation and hospitality.
Ingredients, preparation and serving customs differ between households and villages. Festival banquets and restaurant platters showcase particular aspects of local food; they do not represent every family's daily menu. [12]
Li Culture in Contemporary Life
A weaving lesson can take place in a family home, a workshop or a classroom. A garment can be worn at a celebration and later become a starting point for a new design. These ordinary decisions help determine how knowledge continues.
UNESCO's account of Li textile safeguarding highlights the importance of transmission and sustained practice. Teaching and opportunities to make textiles allow skills to remain usable rather than existing only as descriptions. [6]
For a reader, a useful starting point is the maker: who produced this object, where did they learn, which materials did they choose, and why? These questions connect a finished piece to the people and work behind it.
Common Misunderstandings
- “Li and Lisu are the same people.” They are distinct ethnic groups with different principal regions, languages and traditions.
- “All Li brocade patterns are embroidered.” Many are created during weaving or through coordinated dyeing and weaving.
- “There is one standard Li costume.” Local variation is central to understanding dress.
- “A decorative symbol must be ancient writing.” A motif's appearance alone cannot establish that it records language.
- “Li textiles are still only on UNESCO's Urgent Safeguarding List.” The element moved to the Representative List in 2024.
- “Cultural continuity means living exactly as ancestors did.” Contemporary communities choose how to learn, use and adapt inherited knowledge.
Related Craft Inspiration
These modern Chinese craft items offer connections to stitching, metal ornament and bamboo. They are not presented as Li-made heritage objects.
Bamboo Tea Cup Mat SetA contemporary household craft showing bamboo's versatility.
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Fine Silver Enamel PendantA modern Chinese jewelry design combining metalwork and enamel.
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DIY Chinese Embroidery SetA practical introduction to stitching through a contemporary ornament kit.
View productFrequently Asked Questions
Where do the Li people live?
Their principal communities are in Hainan, including Wuzhishan, Baoting, Qiongzhong, Baisha, Ledong, Lingshui, Changjiang, Dongfang and Sanya.
How many Li people live in China?
The Encyclopedia of China records 1,602,104 Li people in 2020.
What language do the Li people speak?
They speak Li, also encountered under the name Hlai, with regional varieties. Chinese is also widely used.
Do the Li people have a writing system?
A Latin-based Li writing scheme was devised in 1957. Chinese characters are widely used in education and public life.
Is Li brocade the same as embroidery?
No. Li textile techniques include spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidery. Many designs are formed during weaving.
What is the UNESCO status of Li textile techniques?
The element entered the Urgent Safeguarding List in 2009 and transferred to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2024.
When is Sanyuesan?
Its traditional date is the third day of the third lunar month. Local public programs may extend across several days.
Do all Li people live in boat-shaped houses?
No. Modern housing is widespread. Boat-shaped houses are an important traditional architectural form whose construction skills continue through preservation and teaching.
How can I identify a Li-made craft item?
Look for information about the maker, origin, materials, technique and community connection. An ethnic-style label alone does not establish provenance.
References and Further Reading
- Encyclopedia of China: Li Ethnic Group
- National Ethnic Affairs Commission: Li Overview
- National Ethnic Affairs Commission: Li Historical Development
- China Intangible Cultural Heritage: Traditional Li Textile Techniques
- China Intangible Cultural Heritage: Li Spinning, Dyeing, Weaving and Embroidery
- UNESCO: Traditional Li Textile Techniques
- China Intangible Cultural Heritage: Li Barkcloth Making
- Hainan Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs / People's Daily: Boat-Shaped Houses at Baicha
- China Intangible Cultural Heritage: Li Sanyuesan Festival
- Baoting County Government: Li Bamboo and Wood Instruments
- Shenzhen University: Li Dachai Dance
- Baoting County Government: Local Food and Cultural Experiences
